Early autumn on the Suffolk Coast is always heralded by the arrival of an extremely ubiquitous but very undervalued white fish - the whiting (Merlangius melangus) which are present year round inshore, but traditionally arrive in greater numbers throughout September and October. They always used to be the prelude to the inshore winter cod fishery here, but for various reasons that I won’t expound here, cod have rather dropped off the chart and we have seen any commercial number now for several years.

Whiting however yes and thank goodness, as they are so, so tasty, easy to prepare and have the lightest of textures if prepped and cooked correctly. We caught and ate a lot of them when I was growing up and generally cooked them on the bone, which although incredibly flavoursome, used to frustrate me as the bones are fine and sharp and can be tiresome. However, on a successful foray aboard ‘Avocet’ recently to fish one of my childhood fishing marks out of Felixstowe Ferry, I thought I’d share a very easy and delicious way of enjoying whiting to its max, without the bones and the fuss.

Apart from providing a good bit of sport, these little fish are a delight to eat straight out of the water. Seafood doesn’t come much fresher and if you can get hold of them this fresh or from a day-boat fishmonger, then you’ll experience the same buzz that I do. If you can, get fresh whole fish and either fillet or get the fishmonger too. We used to catch so many back in the 70’s and 80’s that it was quite common for us to have a group of folk around the boat when we landed and would gladly give them away.

Whiting Gin-Tempura with homemade Tartare Sauce.

This recipe really is another ‘less-is more’ example of enjoying fresh fish at its best. A great lighter take on fish and chips or a tapas-style dish for sharing. You don’t need to skin the whiting either, as it cooks and eats so well with very few scales.

Serves 4

Ingredients

4-6 fresh day-boat whiting (cleaned and filleted)

Well-seasoned plain flour for dredging.

150g plain flour

150g cornflour

Splash of your favourite artisan gin

Sea salt and ground black pepper.

250ml sparkling mineral water

Lemon wedges to serve

For the tartare sauce

2 fresh free-range egg yolks

200 ml groundnut oil

1 tsp Dijon mustard

2 tsp chopped capers

2 tsp chopped cornichons

Handful chopped fresh parsley

Pinch sea salt

Couple of drops of Escheta (anchovy essence).

Method

Cut the fillets into small bite-sized strips and dredge with the seasoned flour and dust off the excess.

Prepare the tempura batter by combining the flours, adding a pinch of sea salt and whisking in the sparkling water to a loose consistency. Refrigerate

Heat the oil in a shallow pan to a moderate heat and test with a drop of the batter.

Meanwhile, make a mayonnaise for the tartare sauce, by whisking the egg yolks, salt and Dijon mustard together whilst adding a steady stream of the groundnut oil. Whisk until it peaks and then fold in the chopped capers, cornichons and parsley. Add a couple of drops of the Escheta and whisk again. Refrigerate.

Dip the fish pieces in the batter to cover liberally and place in the hot oil, frying for 2 mins on either side or until crispy and very light brown. Drain on kitchen roll and serve immediately with the tartare sauce and a squeeze of lemon.

Light, fresh seasonal fish at its very best using a very sustainable alternative to cod and haddock. Works well too with pollack.